There’s no substitute for a good tailor — a fact no one knows better than CEGO‘s Carl Goldberg. Still, the respected shirt maker knows he can’t measure every man, nor does everyone have access to a tailor of his caliber. For those unfortunate souls, Carl generously offered to divulge his time-tested measurement methods. Star contributor — and Eating Everywhere editor-in-chief — Sam Jacobs walks us through the process, which, keep in mind, you can’t do on your own.
- Neck Circumference: Firmly (not tightly) wrap measuring tape around the neck — 1’’ below the Adam’s apple — leaving enough room for one finger in between tape and front of neck. Do not allow for shrinkage. “That is the job of the shirt maker,” says Carl. If you insist on a roomier fit, add 1/4″ to the final measurement.
- Yoke Width: Locate the bone at the corner of one shoulder. Measure from that point — running the tape over the nape of the back — to the opposite corner.
- Sleeve Length: First, locate the bone at the nape of the neck. Measure from the nape bone to the corner of the shoulder bone (first 1/2 of sleeve measurement equation). Making sure shoulders are relaxed, and arms are straight, measure from the shoulder bone to the hand (second 1/2 of sleeve measurement equation). Aim for spot between the wrist and a half-inch above the V made by thumb and forefinger. Again, do not allow for shrinkage.
- Shirt Length: Measure from the point at which the yoke and collar meet down to the groin. Keep in mind, says Carl, that the average shirt length is 29’’. A shirt that will be worn untucked should be cut about 2” shorter, and about 2-3” tighter at the hip.
- Chest Circumference: Firmly wrap measuring tape around the chest, positioning the tape just under the armpits. Add 4’’ for a tighter fit; 5’’ for a slim fit; 6’’ for a comfortable fit; and 8’’ for what Carl calls an “old-school fit.”
- Waist Circumference: Firmly wrap measuring tape around the midsection, positioned the tape at the fullest part of waist. Be careful about taking too much taper as the pattern may become unbalanced, Carl warns. Add 3’’ for a tighter fit; 4’’ for a slim fit; 5’’ for a comfortable fit; and 7’’ for an old-school fit.
- Hip Circumference: Firmly wrap measuring tape around hips, positioned the tape at the fullest part of hips. Add 4’’ for a tighter fit; 5’’ for a slim fit; 6’’ for a comfortable fit; and 7’’ for that old-school fit.
- Cuff Circumference: Firmly wrap tape around wrist, positioning tape at the wrist bone. “This is a tight measurement,” says Carl. Add 2 3/4‘’ for both button and French cuffs. Add another 1/4” to 1/2” to accommodate a watch (this may vary depending on the size of watch.)
Expert wisdom courtesy of Carl Goldberg
Documentation courtesy of Sam Jacobs
Photography courtesy of Michael Kingsbaker