The Choosy Beggar

A reader tells us that Simone Abbarchi, one of Florence’s smartest bespoke tailors, will be in New York next week, and is still taking appointments. Remarked The Sartorialist, a.k.a., Scott Schuman, in GQ‘s April ’09 issue: “What’s great about Simone is that he’s both old-school and hip.” Abbarchi’s shirts start at $150, suits at $1,100, ties for $90. He also does cashmere sweaters, which start at $550, and pants for $290. Prices vary based on fabric — Quality is a constant. “All his fabrics are made in Italy, and everything is made in his shop/factory in Florence,” our friend tells us. “I once asked him if he used any glue in making his suits and looked at me like I was an alien.”

Monday through Saturday, 3/15-3/20, Abbarchi will be taking appointments at the Michelangelo Hotel in Midtown. Expect 4-to-8 weeks before you see any finished products.

Contacts:
Email: simone.abbarchi@libero.it
Fax: ++39-055-210-552

Michelangelo Hotel – 152 West 51st St btwn 6th & 7th – 212-765-1900 – Map‎

Alas, no picture-taking at the Patrick Ervell sample sale on Howard, adjacent to Opening Ceremony. We’re told half of the stock, including most of Ervell’s prized knits, sold out in the first hour. Still a nice mix of conceptual, faux-rust pieces from the runway along with highly-wearable, spring-appropriate “basics.” We’re talkin’ unstructured fine-tweed blazers (40, 42) for $140; unstructured linen blazers (40) for $120; velvety “winter jeans” in khaki and navy (30, 32, 34) for $75; linen pants (30, 34) for $70; denim jackets (M) for $175; contrasting fabric shirts (M) for $75; black “raglan sleeve” button-downs (M, L) for $75; a handful of baby alpaca sweaters (L, XL) for $100; Dr. Martens (9, 10, 11) for $20; Clarks’ wallabee’s (10, 11) for $30; and a select few Common Projects lace-ups for $100. Cash Only.

Update: A reader reports that Ervell staff restocked on Saturday afternoon. “Plenty of pants in different styles in the 30/32/34 range (mostly 30 and 34) … Some outwear at very reduced prices.”

Patrik Ervell Sample Sale – 35 Howard St between Broadway & Crosby – Suite 4B, Buzzer #4 – Fri & Sat 12pm-6pm – 646-912-9083 – Map

“I am always interested in the high and low, the vintage mixed with casual, formal with informal … those different roles together to create that distortion, I think is important within an outfit … It can be even a distressed belt on a suit, or just sloppy shoes with dress pants … I think that’s great” — Frank Muytjens, head of men’s design at J. Crew

• Beyond The Rack – Tom Ford sunglasses (pictured)
• Editors’ Closet – X
• Gilt Man – Wedding bands and cuff links, Scotch & Soda, Alpha Industries, Mason’s
• Haute Look – X
• Ideeli – X
• Reverse (pass: Reverse) – Acne Jeans, Nudie Jeans
• Row Nine – X
• Rue La La – French Connection, Marmot
• The Top Secret – X

Every guy needs a few swank suits for those nights out at The Boom Boom Room — or whatever they call it now — weekends in Vegas, etc. And there’s no better place to pick up said suits than the Dolce & Gabanna sample sale. Hour-long lines persisted all day, Thursday. Whether that changes or not, it’s worth the wait… for suits and formal wear. Best to avoid everything else unless you’re considering enrolling in, or are presently enrolled in a professional clown school.

Super swank suit down from $2,600 to $780 A more versatile specimen down from $1,700 to $680

A luxurious tweed jacket down from $3,400 to $1,020

Another versatile suit down from $1,700 to $680

One of a million formal dress shirts down from $425 to $127

One of the few wearable pairs of shoes we found — Formal derby’s down from $800 to $240

Dolce & Gabbana Sample Sale – Metropolitan Pavilion – 123 W 18th St between 6th & 7th – 4th Fl – Thu-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-6pm – 877-703-4872 – Map